Sundown from the pool — the half-hour that justifies the drive

The pool is east-facing, but the sky behind you turns first.

If you swim a slow length around six, you'll catch the high clouds going pink before the lake has had a chance to register the change. By six-fifteen the volcano is a silhouette and the water has gone from blue to gold to a colour we haven't found a word for.

Six-thirty is when most guests reach for their phones. We try to remember to leave ours in the room.